- Then the power steering pump developed a chirping sound  at  idle 
 and  I decided to replace the pump and install the new hose too.  First
 thing   was  to remove the accessory drive belt by using a 1/2" breaker
  bar  in the   tensioner  slot. Then came draining the power steering system.
  One  can use   a suction  device to remove the fluid from the resivour,
but  when  you disconnect   the  supply hose from the pump, make sure to
have a suitable  container below   to  catch the remaining fluid. Then came
actually  removing  the pump. There   are  4 10mm bolts that hold the pump
to the block,  3 of  them came out easily   using  a 1/4" drive ratchet.
The other one was  located  behind the pressure   hose fitting and was not
accessible without  removing  the seized in place  hose. Since power steering
fluid is flamable,  using a torch is out of the  question. So I used a rotary
grinding tool at  low speed to cut through the  metal portion of the hose.
Even though I had  drained the resivour previously,  there was still plenty
of fluid in the system to become airborne from the  grinding wheel and give
me a shampoo of power steering  fluid. Anyways, after  removing the last
of the 4 bolts which hold the pump  to the engine, the old  power steering
pump was maneuvered out of the engine  bay. Now came the fun  of installing
 the new pump I got from a wrecked (<1  year old) 2002 grand  marquis
located over 2000 miles away in colorado via      http://www.car-part.com.
  Bolting the pump into place and installing  the low pressure supply hose
 was easy. But getting the pressure fitting installed  onto the pump was
a  big hassle because I still had the pulley on the pump,  perhaps it would
have been easier to install the hose if I first removed the pulley. Anyways,
turning the front wheels got a little more clearance from the drag link &
tierods, but it was still not easy. I used a combination  of 18mm flarenut
3/8" drive "crows foot", 18mm open end wrench, and needle  nosed pliers to
get it on after much frustration. Finally it was time to put some fluid in
the resivour and bleed the air out of the system. I had not yet installed
the steering box side of the pressure hose and inserted the uninstalled end
into a catch container. Then I disconnected the fuel pump by means of the
inertia switch in the trunk and cranked the starter a few times. This did
bleed most of the air out of the system, but things got messy and fluid splattered
all over the accessory drive belt and pulleys. Finally installed the other
end of the pressure hose onto the box using a 16mm flarenut 3/8" drive "crows
  foot". All was now together and it was time to start up the engine and
look   for leaks. Big problem though as the belt was coated in power steering
fluid   and I was getting a very loud   schreeching noise from the engine.
Besides   the noise, I also observed that   the waterpump pulley was very
hot to the   touch. Then realized that the belt   was  slipping around the
accessories   without turning them properly. Some  engine degreaser and a
low pressure  garden hose helped, but the belt still  didn't have enough
friction against  the pulleys. The belt was old and probably  in need of
replacement anyways.
 
  - The new goodyear gatorback accessory drive belt that I installed  
   as  a replacement has a unique ribbed design to it that gets a better
 grip    on  the accessory pulleys than the factory motorcraft belt did.
Used  to  notice   that the headlights would dim, the climate control blower
motor   spin slowly,   and the voltage guage dip for a little while after
I'd driven   through deep   puddles of water. Also used to hear the accessory
belt chirp   sometimes during   hard wide open throttle shifts due to sudden
large changes   in engine rpm  from the firm tranny shift calibration of
the police pcm.  But both issues  seem to have been resolved with the installation
of the new belt.
               
  - Note that one of the fittings on the pressure   hose is  18mm   and
  many  flare nut wrench sets do not include this size.
 
  - One decision when selecting another power steering pump  was   whether
   I wanted to keep the variable steering assist system functional.    I
could   have installed a non-evo pump from another 4.6L equipped vehicle
   such as  a 99+ police interceptor, mustang gt, or f150. But the constant
  assist pumps   have to compromise between low speed maneuverability and
high  speed stability.    So I chose to keep the evo system functional and
acquired  a steering pump    from an evo equipped 02' marquis. The electrical
connector   was the same  on  both my 98' PI's pump & the 02' marquis's
pump, as  was the low pressure    supply fitting, the pressure hose fitting,
pulley,  and other physical dimensions    of the pump. A couple points of
intrest about the evo system: if the actuator    becomes unplugged or power
is disconnected   from the control module, the  pump  will continuosly run
at full assist which  will cause the vehicle to  wander  and likely damage
the pump as well. The  evo system in 02' and prior  crown  vics is essentially
a standalone setup  and a malfunction of the system  will  not illuminate
the check engine light  nor will it be picked up by plugging    into the
obd2 diagnostic port under  the drivers dash because the system  has  it's
own seperate diagnostic connector  in the trunk against the drivers  side
 quarter panel. 
 
  - On the humorous side, I was testing the variable assist features  
  of  the evo steering pump that I had installed by sending the evo controller
    a bogus vss (vehicle speed signal). To see which setting of the frequency
    generator setting corresponded to which vehicle speed, I turned the ignition
    key on and fed the speedometer a bogus vss signal too. Found out the
hard     way that the speedometer needle will easily spin past the 140MPH
markings     and can get pinned against the black plastic casing. Suprisingly,
the needle    would not return to zero even after turning off the ignition
key and I had   to disassemble part of the dashboard to remove the instrument
cluster cover   and nudge the needle back to zero with my finger. If you
connect a voltmeter   to the evo actuator outputs of the control module behind
the glovebox, you   should see 0V when the car is parked with the engine
running and around 6.5V  when cruising at around 90MPH. Going faster than
90MPH does not lower the  steering assist level any further, but it does
lower the amount by which  steering wheel rotation speed affects the assist
level.